Week Thirteen: Longreach – the Gold Coast of the Outback
Armed and dangerous! |
The lady at the Visitors Centre was right when she said Longreach had so many attractions it had become the Gold Coast of the Outback. We loved it and extended our stay from four days to five and still didn’t get to see everything we wanted to. Longreach is situated in the heart of Outback Queensland and is steeped in history. It was once a wool producing area but now rides on the very broad back of beef cattle and has very successfully diversified into tourism. It was a case of having to because of the drought, which has had a stranglehold since 2013. The people are very resilient and resourceful and haven’t lost their senses of humour. When we inquired about the impact of the drought one old timer said it was so dry “the trees were chasin’ the dawgs”. You have to laugh.
Up close and personal to a jet engine |
We have never heard such broad Australian accents and they kept us smiling and laughing all week with their laconic way of speaking and laid back lifestyles. Our gorgeous young guide, Maddie, who showed us over the Qantas Founders Museum had just returned from six weeks in Europe and she said no one understood a word she said. We could understand why. Along with fifty other sightseers, she herded us around for an hour and a half and had us spell bound with her professionalism and knowledge of the huge aircraft on display. She kept us all in check and no one stepped out of line. No mean feat especially as she in only five feet two and about forty-seven kilos. Maddie loves her job and it shows.
Come fly with me! |
The Museum is an independent not-for-profit community organization operating since 1996. It is an award winning, world-class museum and cultural display, telling the story of Qantas through interpretive displays with original and replica aircraft. We were fascinated with the Boeing 747 named the Spirit of Bunbury. Maddie took us on a walkaround tour showing us all the features of the aircraft including the Traffic Collision Avoidance System, the workings of the undercarriage and wings and all the bits and bobs (that is not the technical term but I lose concentration after a while) and the Flight Recorder (black boxes, there are two, which are actually orange). They are placed at the back of the plane not at the front with the pilots as commonly thought because, as Maddie explained, “Have you ever heard of a plane flying backwards into a mountain?” No and I don’t want to.
We will never look at flying the same and have a greater understanding of all the intricacies of the big beast waiting for us on the tarmac next time we fly. A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing but I now know how to ‘arm the doors’, ‘cross check’ and ‘prepare the cabin for landing’. I think I have missed my vocation!
We will never look at flying the same and have a greater understanding of all the intricacies of the big beast waiting for us on the tarmac next time we fly. A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing but I now know how to ‘arm the doors’, ‘cross check’ and ‘prepare the cabin for landing’. I think I have missed my vocation!
Our caravan park was like a dust bowl but central to everything so we walked to the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame. Wow! Museums these days are not the boring old glass cabinets and dusty, moth eaten displays of our childhoods. They have themed galleries, touch screens and audio-visual presentations to showcase brilliant displays to hold your interest and to educate and explain a plethora of facts while maintaining your interest. I must admit we do prefer the ‘hands on’ visual displays and the live Outback Stockman’s show was brilliant.
It is a tribute to the skills of past and present stockmen who shaped Outback Australia from drovers to stockmen and the sturdy horses that carried them. The show was fantastic and as animal lovers, we were enthralled with the horses and dogs that enabled the stockmen to move thousands of head of cattle through this tough land. The very talented stockman who presented the show rode his stock horse, herded sheep with the aid of two kelpies (our very favourites) and also sang and played his guitar. As I said before, we have smiled and laughed all week. It is another world out here.
There's a coach comin' in! |
There was more iconic Aussie humour and experiences to come when we fronted up for the Cobb and Co Stagecoach Experience and Harry Redford (Captain Starlight) Old Time Tent Show. What a hoot! After a ‘smoko’ of scones with jam and cream and billy tea we climbed on board our stagecoach to trace the original mail route from Longreach to Windorah along bush tracks that pioneers set out on over a hundred years ago. It gave us an insight to what the pioneers experienced when travelling between towns. What a ride! We got up to a gallop through the back blocks of Longreach and along with our fellow passengers had a rollicking good time. Despite the dust and white knuckle ride we had a fantastic time but were relieved to be safely delivered to our destination back at the Outback Pioneer Centre in the main street of Longreach.
The Kinnon brothers tent show |
Toasty warm by the fire |
That night we boarded a paddlewheeler for a sunset river cruise up the Thomson River. Unfortunately we were tacked on the end of a busload of oldies from Canberra and they were boring as the proverbial bat poo. The fastest they moved was to the chuck wagon that served up our authentic stockman’s campfire dinner. GK said he has faced softer hip and shoulders on the rugby field and they weren’t armed with walking sticks!
We managed to distance ourselves for the entertainment and the hilarious bush poet who recounted a poem on not being able to back a trailer. He is an accomplished stockman, drover and roustabout but can not master the skill of backing his trailer despite practicing left hand down, right hand down and has to get his wife to do it. As most of the audience were caravanners like us we were in stitches as we have all witnessed someone struggling to park their van. It can be very embarrassing as it always when there are a lot of people around and it is quite a tight spot. We politely avert our eyes and hope it never happens to us. So far so good.
Loved the bush poets and the campfire |
Winners are grinners - almost! |
We were lucky the Longreach Races were on when we were in town so on Saturday we drove out to the very impressive country racetrack to have a flutter. I dragged GK along to watch the Fashions of the Field with me and he got roped into entering the Best Dressed Gent competition! They had only one entrant and were desperate for more and begged GK to enter.
We know what it is like to organize events and have them fizzle out through lack of participation so being the good sport he is, he entered. The judging panel managed to drag another couple of suckers from out of the bar and explained that the entrant who impressed them with their imagination on the catwalk would win. GK dropped and did two pushups with handclaps in between to wow not only the judges but the awestruck crowd as well. His efforts were in vain as he came second losing to a local with a man bun. He won a voucher to the Qantas Founders Museum, which we passed onto a very appreciative Victorian couple who bought us a drink. Win win. Needless to say there were lashings of Deep Heat massaged into my Hunk of Spunk that night when the adrenalin died down after his gymnastic display and reality set in. There is still life in the old dog.
We know what it is like to organize events and have them fizzle out through lack of participation so being the good sport he is, he entered. The judging panel managed to drag another couple of suckers from out of the bar and explained that the entrant who impressed them with their imagination on the catwalk would win. GK dropped and did two pushups with handclaps in between to wow not only the judges but the awestruck crowd as well. His efforts were in vain as he came second losing to a local with a man bun. He won a voucher to the Qantas Founders Museum, which we passed onto a very appreciative Victorian couple who bought us a drink. Win win. Needless to say there were lashings of Deep Heat massaged into my Hunk of Spunk that night when the adrenalin died down after his gymnastic display and reality set in. There is still life in the old dog.
As I said our stay in Longreach wasn’t long enough but we have been left with lasting impressions of what a great town it is and how the pioneering spirit and resilience of Aussies facing grim odds can overcome hard times. We hope the drought breaks very soon and the wonderful people of Longreach can get on with their lives. The bush poet summed it up when he said that way out west is where ‘the handshakes are stronger and the smiles linger longer’. Couldn’t have said it better myself. I wonder what next week will bring as we head further south down the track through more drought stricken outback towns that make up Outback Central Queensland. Will let you know next week. Love to all and keep safe.