Week Eleven: Crocs and Cruises.

Does anyone know a good orthodontist?

They say never smile at a crocodile but that is just what we have been doing this week – albeit from the safety of our tour boats on the Yellow Water Billabong and South Alligator and Katherine Rivers. The wildlife is amazing and we have spotted more than our fair share of crocs, water buffalo, wild horses and wallabies, not to mention the abundant birdlife at Kakadu. It is a photographer’s paradise.

We have been to Kakadu about fifteen years ago when we unfairly renamed it Kaka-don’t. So much has changed in that time and it was great to share the experience with Jenny and Terry. Terry is like a big kid and his enthusiasm and excitement at witnessing all that Kakadu has to offer was infectious. We pushed ourselves to do and see more than we normally would and it was really worth it.

One of the many hundreds of water buffalo in Kakadu

The Yellow Water Sunset Cruise was fantastic and we were able to get up close and personal with a 3.5 metre croc within five minutes of boarding. Our petite skipper Olivia expertly guided our tour boat through the Billabong and up the South Alligator River where we spotted more crocodiles and birds including the famous jabiru, sea eagles and migratory magpie geese. Olivia gave us a fascinating commentary and we learnt so much. The river at sunset was spectacular.

Cruising on the Yellow Water Billabong

A famous jabiru

We were up bright and early the next morning to do the Sunrise Cruise. Our skipper Rueben is a local Bininj/Mungguy man and his knowledge of the area is incredible. His people are now the proud custodians of Kakadu and its surrounds including the Cooinda Lodge and Caravan Park where we stayed. His cruise gave us a different perspective to Olivia’s so we came away having a greater respect for Australia’s largest National Park and its rich history. We have changed our minds and consider Kakadu a definite ‘do’ for anyone considering a trip to the Northern Territory.

Terry was keen to travel out to see the famous rock art gallery at Ubirr, forty kms from Jabiru so we packed plenty of water, hats, sunscreen and the much needed insect repellant and set off to see the aboriginal paintings dating back 15,000 years. Wow! They were mind-blowing. Ubirr’s most famous pieces include X-ray paintings of animals, Dreamtime folklore and ’contact art’ showing local impressions of contact with white explorers. They have lasted this long because they are under rock ledges which protect them from the elements. 

Stunning rock art at Ubirr

Despite the heat, the site was once again literally crawling with other tourists and families, as it is still school holidays. Jenny and I decided to camp under a ledge in the shade as the boys tackled the steep 250 metre climb up and over the rocks to Nardab Lookout which has 360 degree views over the floodplains to Arnhem Land. It is very lush and green and we were surprised as the rest of the country is very dry at the moment. 

 

GK overlooking the floodplains to Arnhem Land

Another of Terry’s must-see destinations was Cahill’s Crossing, which he had seen on YouTube. (Look it up – it’s fascinating.) Despite the ‘Crossing Closed’ and ‘Keep Out’ signs several foolhardy idiots were attempting the crocodile infested river crossing with kids on board. We watched from the safety of the viewing platform with clear evidence of two failed attempts in the river below us. It takes all types doesn’t it? 

Idiots crossing Cahill's Crossing with two not so lucky ones in the croc infested river

Well camouflaged rock wallaby

We have had lots of highlights over the last eleven weeks but one that takes the cake is the Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Cruise on the Katherine River through its series of gorges. The biggest one, Katherine Gorge, was renamed Nitmiluk in 1989 when the traditional owners gained title to the land. It has soaring cathedral like cliffs on either side of the river with sandy beaches dotted here and there where you can moor your canoe. No thanks as we saw a 3 metre fresh water croc on our way up the river, sunbaking on the sand. We also saw a pair of inquisitive rock wallabies gracefully bounding across the rocks. The international tourists and we blasé Aussies were fascinated. A real bonus.

Indescribable Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk)

As the sun sets the colours of the sandstone gorge walls deepen and turn glorious shades of ochre. It is breathtaking and we were pinching ourselves as we sat back enjoying our three course meal, sipping wine and sailing through Nitmiluk which is thousands of years old. Our gorgeous young crew of two Chileans, a Liverpudlian and our skipper - a traditional owner, looked after us very well and pointed our crocodiles in the water around us. The spotlights on top of the boat gave the gorge a truly mystical feeling, or maybe it was the wine. Nevertheless it was an unforgettable night with spectacular scenery, fine food and great company. Thanks Jen and Ter. Our time with you was too short but we had a ball. See you back in Perth. XOXOXO.

Life is good!

Before the sunset 

It is always sad saying goodbye but we know Jenny and Terry will love the rest of their holiday driving through to Broome via Kununurra. They loved the Northern Territory so they will find the Kimberleys equally as impressive. I know we did. With them gone we are back on the straight and narrow (literally) as we venture further south without the temptations of chocolate, Magnums and too much wine at nighttime. We are so easily led and our waistlines prove it. 

GK relaxing at Mataranka Thermal Pool

We are on familiar territory once again as we were up this way last year heading in a northerly direction. That didn’t stop us calling into the famous thermal pool at Mataranka for a dip. The pool is a constant 34 degrees and flows from Rainbow Springs at an amazing 30.5 million litres a day. Because of its popularity the caravan park at the pool is growing all the time. We arrived early and got a drive through site in the back blocks but by four o’clock it was chocker block. 

There was live entertainment at the hotel on site and Happy Hour was from five till six. Unhappy Hour more like it. It was like entering God’s Waiting Room as we sauntered in hoping to pal up with some like-minded travellers looking for a good time.  The crowd was made up of a motley collection of old farts drinking lemon, lime and bitters and reading their books waiting for the band to start. GK couldn’t even have one off the wood as the beer came in stubbies. Not impressed. We had one round and then went back to the Cubby de Wheels Mk II where we could still hear the band followed by the whip cracking (!) until late into the night. Talk about Hicksville.

Well – what a difference twenty-four hours make. We are now at one of our favourite haunts, Daly Waters, and met up with a terrific couple from the Sunshine Coast last night. Happy Hour stretched into several hours and we had a great time swapping ideas and things to see as we head east. We gave them the lowdown on Kakadu and Darwin and they gave us info on some great free camps. They weren’t keen to linger around Katherine as last time they were there Des had a heart attack and had to be flown to Darwin, then Brisbane, then Adelaide, then back to Darwin. Poor Bronwyn was stuck in Katherine for two weeks, as she couldn’t tow the caravan by herself. As a returned soldier, DVA paid $900 for Des to return to Katherine from Darwin by taxi! Sounds like a movie doesn’t it?

Our new besties at Daly Waters Pub

We are really looking forward to the next chapter in our holiday as we explore new parts of Australia that we haven’t seen before. The weather is getting very chilly in the mornings but the days are still warm and sunny. Hope it lasts. Those desert nights can be very chilly too. Hope you are all warm and snug where you are. Brrr. Time to put the kettle on and wake up GK. Lots of love to everyone and keep safe.

Three brolgas before flight

Three brolgas in flight - fantastic